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Drywall Question
#1
I asked this in another thread but maybe someone can help me out if I start a new one:

So I basically have about a quarter inch gap between my drywall and finished tile. I had to cut the drywall to install new backer board and i was left with a gap once the tile was finished.

So my question is, how do I feel this in so its all flush? Can I just fill the hole with joint compound? Do I have to use tape? Im not really joining two pieces of drywall since its being filled up against finished tile...

Any recommendations would be helpful.
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#2
(09-26-2016, 02:34 PM)WeezyBengal Wrote: I asked this in another thread but maybe someone can help me out if I start a new one:

So I basically have about a quarter inch gap between my drywall and finished tile. I had to cut the drywall to install new backer board and i was left with a gap once the tile was finished.

So my question is, how do I feel this in so its all flush? Can I just fill the hole with joint compound? Do I have to use tape? Im not really joining two pieces of drywall since its being filled up against finished tile...

Any recommendations would be helpful.

You can use compound, but there's a good chance it will have a crack or two being that wide a gap. I wouldn't use tape, but that's my personal choice. For houses with swelling or shifting (we get that a bit in western Kentucky where everything's a sinkhole, and it's an issue in Florida), some people use caulk. Given that your making the transition from drywall to tile, that might be a good water resistant choice. I had a bathroom repair a few years ago where I caulked the inside of the sheetrock patch, then mudded and rubbed the outside like normal. Held up good.
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#3
(09-26-2016, 03:00 PM)Benton Wrote: You can use compound, but there's a good chance it will have a crack or two being that wide a gap. I wouldn't use tape, but that's my personal choice. For houses with swelling or shifting (we get that a bit in western Kentucky where everything's a sinkhole, and it's an issue in Florida), some people use caulk. Given that your making the transition from drywall to tile, that might be a good water resistant choice. I had a bathroom repair a few years ago where I caulked the inside of the sheetrock patch, then mudded and rubbed the outside like normal. Held up good.

So, fill the hole with caulk and then use joint compound over the calk and sand it out, prime and paint? 
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#4
(09-26-2016, 03:31 PM)WeezyBengal Wrote: So, fill the hole with caulk and then use joint compound over the calk and sand it out, prime and paint? 

The would be my recommendation, but I'm just a landlord. Outside of a few times, most of my drywall jobs are pretty basic.

But the caulking should help provide some backing and cut down on the chance of cracking.
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#5
Base Board is you are talking about wall to floor. Tape and spackle it you are talking wall to wall
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#6
(09-26-2016, 04:08 PM)bfine32 Wrote: Base Board is you are talking about wall to floor. Tape and spackle it you are talking wall to wall

Its wall to wall, but the other wall is finished tile so I cant really tape it to that. 
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#7
My logic would say that prior to tiling, it should have been treated like a joint in the cement board, i.e. mortared and taped.

Not sure that is correct though.
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#8
(09-26-2016, 09:08 PM)jfkbengals Wrote: My logic would say that prior to tiling, it should have been treated like a joint in the cement board, i.e. mortared and taped.

Not sure that is correct though.

Yup. But after the fact, you got to fix it somehow.
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#9
(09-27-2016, 10:09 AM)Benton Wrote: Yup. But after the fact, you got to fix it somehow.

Pretty much this. I screwed up and should have taped it together before tiling. Oh well. 
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#10
(09-27-2016, 10:09 AM)Benton Wrote: Yup. But after the fact, you got to fix it somehow.

Backer rod and paintable silicone might be the best way to go...
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#11
(09-27-2016, 10:07 PM)jfkbengals Wrote: Backer rod and paintable silicone might be the best way to go...


Probably my route as well, without seeing it.....

"Better send those refunds..."

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#12
If it's only a qtr inch, grout caulk may work. It's hard to tell without seeing it though.
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#13
I'm confused, as to why your installer would have left you with a gap, anywhere. Could you provide a photo of the area that you are describing? To actually see the problem, I might be able to give you a simple solution.
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#14
Is this on the wall? Or is it where the wall meets the tiled floor?

Either way it seems to me the matching grout caulk is the way to go.
I'm gonna break every record they've got. I'm tellin' you right now. I don't know how I'm gonna do it, but it's goin' to get done.

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#15
(09-29-2016, 01:40 PM)jason Wrote: Is this on the wall? Or is it where the wall meets the tiled floor?

Either way it seems to me the matching grout caulk is the way to go.
It's way more forgiving than silicone. That shit is hard to make look good.
I'm gonna break every record they've got. I'm tellin' you right now. I don't know how I'm gonna do it, but it's goin' to get done.

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#16
(09-29-2016, 01:40 PM)jason Wrote: Is this on the wall? Or is it where the wall meets the tiled floor?

Either way it seems to me the matching grout caulk is the way to go.

I'm thinking that it must be a wall, as he said that he cut drywall out to put in backer board.  If it is a shower cavity, wondering why the tile installer didn't fill the gap with tile mortar, and lay tile just past the gap?
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#17
(09-29-2016, 01:51 PM)SunsetBengal Wrote: I'm thinking that it must be a wall, as he said that he cut drywall out to put in backer board.  If it is a shower cavity, wondering why the tile installer didn't fill the gap with tile mortar, and lay tile just past the gap?
Yeah. It's just a case of bad workmanship. I put up with a lot from my tile guy. He's lazy, constantly shits in toilets when the water is shut off on our job sites, his van is always breaking down, but he does a killer job.
I'm gonna break every record they've got. I'm tellin' you right now. I don't know how I'm gonna do it, but it's goin' to get done.

- Ja'Marr Chase 
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#18
Hire a Mexican, they're drywall magicians.
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#19
(09-26-2016, 09:08 PM)jfkbengals Wrote: My logic would say that prior to tiling, it should have been treated like a joint in the cement board, i.e. mortared and taped.

Not sure that is correct though.

That is correct.  In this situation, spackle would probably be preferable to drywall mud.  It is much less likely to shrink or crack.
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#20
I would just stick some duct tape on it and call it a day.

But that is why nobody ever ask me to fix anything. Wink
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