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I found this: https://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-finish-a-wooden-picnic-table
As for metal. As long as it’s painted it should be good. If not, primer and paint it. If it cheaply painted (you should be able to tell) you could lightly scoff it with primer and repaint with a more durable paint.
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From what I could tell, it looks to be pre-finished for outdoor use. Short of epoxy coating it, I can't think of any finish that will last forever in the elements.
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(04-15-2019, 04:12 PM)SunsetBengal Wrote: From what I could tell, it looks to be pre-finished for outdoor use. Short of epoxy coating it, I can't think of any finish that will last forever in the elements.
It is pre coated, but I wanted to protect it even more since the reviews are saying it doesnt hold up long. Is there ssomething I can put on top of the pre coating to protect it even more?
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(04-15-2019, 04:01 PM)HarleyDog Wrote: I found this: https://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-finish-a-wooden-picnic-table
As for metal. As long as it’s painted it should be good. If not, primer and paint it. If it cheaply painted (you should be able to tell) you could lightly scoff it with primer and repaint with a more durable paint.
So just put a couple coats of polyuerathane on it and call it a day?
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(04-15-2019, 04:30 PM)WeezyBengal Wrote: It is pre coated, but I wanted to protect it even more since the reviews are saying it doesnt hold up long. Is there ssomething I can put on top of the pre coating to protect it even more?
In order to put something over the factory finish, you need to find out what was in the factory finish, and find a product that will bond to it. Polyurethane is a great product, but the sun will get to it, quickly. Dad and I made a bar top out in his back yard leisure space, we have to refinish it every year.
I do know that they make paints with epoxy in them, Minwax and Rustoleum make them. I'm sure they also offer a clear coat version.
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(04-15-2019, 04:30 PM)WeezyBengal Wrote: It is pre coated, but I wanted to protect it even more since the reviews are saying it doesnt hold up long. Is there ssomething I can put on top of the pre coating to protect it even more?
Just buy a waterproof cover (table cloth).
Adding an additional chemical might not mix with what is currently protecting it. Only other choice would be to strip it and apply shellac.
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(04-15-2019, 04:53 PM)bfine32 Wrote: Just buy a waterproof cover (table cloth).
Adding an additional chemical might not mix with what is currently protecting it. Only other choice would be to strip it and apply shellac.
I was going to say the samething. I'd cover it when not in use. You have to be really good at refinishing to make it look like it did from the facory.
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(04-15-2019, 04:49 PM)WeezyBengal Wrote: What about just spraying it with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Thompsons-10100-Aerosol-Multi-Surface-Waterproofer/dp/B000LNTQNI
Well, like I mentioned before, you'll have to make sure that it will bond with the factory finish. If it doesn't stick, you'll just be wasting your time.
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(04-16-2019, 11:37 AM)sandwedge Wrote: I was going to say the samething. I'd cover it when not in use. You have to be really good at refinishing to make it look like it did from the facory.
I keep the surface of mine covered with a layer of empty plates, glasses, beer cans, ashtrays, and newspaper.
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As others have said, you'd need to pretty much strip the factory coating to apply an epoxy finish that would really achieve what it sounds like you're looking for. In that case, I would cover it when not in use and look at refinishing it down the line once the current coating has lost its luster.
I've used total boat epoxy on quite a few projects and have liked the finish and protection its provided. Its definitely cost prohibitive, especially with a piece this size. I've also received high recommendations on the newer stone coat epoxy products from other woodworking buddies, again, cost prohibitive.
With something this size, I think stripping it and applying a UV specific spar-urathane product down the line will be the best bet overall.
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(04-16-2019, 12:31 PM)fredtoast Wrote: I keep the surface of mine covered with a layer of empty plates, glasses, beer cans, ashtrays, and newspaper.
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Wrap it in one of these. PROTECT THE WOOD!
![[Image: The-biggest-condom-ever_o_57634.jpg]](https://img.memecdn.com/The-biggest-condom-ever_o_57634.jpg)
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Ask one or more of these folks.. https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/forum.php#/
Many have been in the wood business for many years and are quite helpful .
By the way, if you do manage to damage the wood feel free to contact me to remake the wood components. I'm guessing since it's from Walmart it's likely some cheap Asian wood like perhaps rubber tree wood which generally comes from rubber tree plantations after all the trunks have been tapped for the rubbery sap..
I'd go with something known to withstand the elements such as white oak or even better, tzalam. (Caribbean walnut)
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(04-16-2019, 05:44 PM)grampahol Wrote: Ask one or more of these folks.. https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/forum.php#/
Many have been in the wood business for many years and are quite helpful .
By the way, if you do manage to damage the wood feel free to contact me to remake the wood components. I'm guessing since it's from Walmart it's likely some cheap Asian wood like perhaps rubber tree wood which generally comes from rubber tree plantations after all the trunks have been tapped for the rubbery sap..
I'd go with something known to withstand the elements such as white oak or even better, tzalam. (Caribbean walnut)
It is Acacia Wood. It is a strong hardwood that is supposed to be naturally moisture resistant.
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(04-15-2019, 04:53 PM)bfine32 Wrote: Adding an additional chemical might not mix with what is currently protecting it.
(04-16-2019, 12:10 PM)SunsetBengal Wrote: Well, like I mentioned before, you'll have to make sure that it will bond with the factory finish. If it doesn't stick, you'll just be wasting your time.
This. Some waterproofing treatments are thin as water and need to soak into the wood grain. Some are like oil. Others are like polyurethane or varnish.
Water based polyurethane and shellac are not recommended for table tops because they are sensitive to heat. You can't sit anything hot on them.
So I recommend a varnish or oil based polyurethane.
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Thanks for the input everyone.
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